Is it just me, or has blush exploded onto our beauty shelves of late? Not to mention seeing it 100 times a day while doom-scrolling on Instagram and TikTok—and I’m not mad about it!

As a big fan of blush, I am over the moon to have so many shade options and new textures to add to my makeup kit. But I worry that consumers may not be aware of how to apply some of these new textures and finishes. Plus, blush application has modernised in the past few years, so Spring is the perfect season to introduce a fresh approach to complexion through blush. LET’S GLOW!

Powder versus cream

I have now been a professional makeup artist for 23 years! Oh, how it seems like yesterday…Yes, I may be old, but knowledgeable! Blush back then was simple—usually 3-4 main shades and always powder! What could go wrong? The main mishap, if you want to call it that, was the over-application of blush and almost using blush as a contour, which we now know has two very different placements (I’ll go through application points shortly). It was a big mix of overly pink, too much blush applied, or the total opposite—nothing at all, giving the face no colour and lift—sounds dreadful!

The only creams used years ago were lipsticks, an application my own grandmother loved, and to be fair, looked pretty good! When cream texture blushes were finally introduced to mainstream retail, there was a concern it would be messy to apply, wouldn’t last long—especially in the heat—and when to apply? Over or under powders, etc. We have now learnt how easy and blendable creams can be, often looking more youthful and natural than our powder blush originals.

For me, as an artist, it’s all about the overall vibe of the look the client wants—soft/ethereal, or pop of colour/artistic—which determines the blush texture/finish I choose. It also comes down to skin type and texture—that’s probably the biggest learning from applying blush on so many faces; some just aren’t meant for all. The best part about the majority of cream blushes is the softness they give, as they can be blended to your desired level of colour intensity. Whereas powders are more inclined to be that one-colour look—yes, you can add more or less for intensity, but once on the skin, blending and softening can be more difficult compared to that of a cream—hence the rise of their popularity.

Powder, for me, gives more of a pop of structured placement of colour, whereas creams can be blended out for softer edges, even though colour is visible. With that in mind, I feel creams are easier to use, especially for a makeup newbie.

Metallic versus matte

There is definitely a big ‘finish’ difference now in blushes! We are seeing more and more built-in highlighter effects within blush formulations with visible shimmer—and no, not everyone can wear these well Blush was typically matte, bold powder colour. Then we started seeing lighter formulations for easier application and blendability, but slowly small highlights and glitters were added to achieve more of a ‘glow’ factor, which is really what blush is meant to do—glow and lift for a healthier, fresher complexion. Fast forward to 2024, and we have sooo much glow factor it’s confusing to know what works best for individual skin types and concerns.

For example, if your customer has oilier skin or visible texture like pores/scarring, a glowy, shimmery blush isn’t for them, as it will emphasise and draw attention to those concerns. In this case, opt for matte blushes; cream or powder is fine, but of a matte/blurring nature. Skin will look smoother, diffusing any signs of skin texture. The smoother the natural skin your client has, the more glow and shimmery blush can then be applied.

This philosophy applies to foundation as well… Highly textured-looking skin will always look best in a velvet matte finish foundation rather than super glowy—it’s all about how the light hits the skin. Do you want to reflect light (smoother or dryer skin) or diffuse light (oily and/or textured skin)?

The good thing is, you can still create glow and lift with matte blushes, as it also comes down to the shade used, as well as the finish. The brighter the shade, the more lift, glow, and plumpness the face will have, whereas the deeper the shade, the more contour and structure the face will have—this follows the general contouring rules of highlight (lift) and shade (recede).

As Beauty Advisors or Makeup Artists, it’s super important to recognise a customer’s skin type and texture, as well as the finished look they desire—this will help you determine whether cream or powder formulations and matte or metallic finishes for blush are most appropriate.

Application

Lastly, application can make a big difference to the face shape, whether it’s adding more structure and shape or giving a softer, plumping effect.

We’ve hopefully heard of the apple of the cheek, the rounder part of the upper front cheek area, usually activated when we smile. This is usually where most blush application is applied and is separate to shading (contouring), which happens slightly lower and on the sides of the face, under the cheekbone. A lot of people get these two points (blush and contour) mixed up, and application doesn’t really then give structure and lift correctly.

For best results, shading (usually created with a bronzer or tones deeper than your skin tone) adds structure to the face by adding more hollows under the cheekbone for a sculpted effect. For some, this is needed to create a stronger cheekbone, but if the face lacks plumpness, that’s when blush is applied on top of shading—on the apple of the cheek and on the actual cheekbone—to contrast and give lift to the face. Who doesn’t want that!

Blush, usually being brighter than your skin tone, plus contrasting with any shading applied, really pops the cheek and adds a lifting effect. To me, this is very anti-ageing and fresh. It’s for this reason that brands have realised the need for blush, and why we now have so many new shades and formulations, so everyone can enjoy the benefits of blush.

In the last year or so, we are seeing blush applied even higher on the cheekbone for extra lift and even around the temples, as well as the tip of the nose, so blush tones can marry together, completing a look tonally. This is a very modern way of blush application that really brings skin tones alive.

So, whatever brand of blush you may work for or use in your work life, be sure that not only the shade suits your customer’s skin and desired look but the texture and finish is correct for them as well. Blush is not going anywhere anytime soon, and we are always learning new tips and techniques that we need to pass on for better retail confidence and success. Happy Blushing!! 

This article was first published in the Spring issue of Retail Beauty:

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