Night is when the skin gets to work, repairing and renewing itself. But is a dedicated nighttime routine really necessary? Retail Beauty asked Dr Cara McDonald, specialist dermatologist at Complete Skin Specialists in Sunbury, Victoria, to share her expert advice.
Should we use different skincare in the morning versus at night?
Certain skincare products are more suitable to certain times of the day due to their side effects or actions, but you don’t necessarily need to use different products in the morning versus at night. Ingredients that protect against UV and environmental damage such as SPF and antioxidants are best used in the morning, whereas those that cause photosensitivity such as retinoids should be used at night. Most other products can be used morning and/or evening depending on the individual’s skin concerns, skin type and goals.
Look out for products with impressive multi-tasking formulas, such as La Roche-Posay’s newest blemish-fighting innovation Effaclar A.Z. Gel-Cream, bringing a scientifically backed, dual-action formula that works hard day or night. It can be applied twice daily for maximum results.
What advantages are there to using skincare at night over in the morning?
There are a number of advantages to using certain skin care products at night. Nighttime is when the skin naturally regenerates, with a higher rate of cell turnover and repair. So active ingredients such as retinoids or peptides may have an enhanced result when used overnight. There is also the advantage of improved absorption overnight with reduced sweating and oil production, less friction, no UV exposure or no other products such as makeup which may interfere with the action of skincare.
Should we change our nighttime regime between summer and winter?
This really depends on your skin type, skin concerns and the skincare products you are using. In general, the weather is dryer over the winter months and therefore many people need an increase in hydrating products, and potentially less active ingredients over the winter. There is a misconception that you should stop retinoids and some other actives if you are going to be outdoors over summer, but in most cases, it is safe to continue with actives year-round so long as you are being careful with sun protection. Those with congested or acne-prone skin may experience oilier skin during summer.
Should we use a serum first at night before lotions or creams?
Serums are fast absorbing and designed to help deliver active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin. Serums can be used when looking to layer multiple products or enhance delivery of certain active ingredients. Serums can also be effective for adding hydration to the skin but the water will evaporate off the skin if they are not sealed in with a lotion or cream layer on top.
What ingredients do you feel are an asset in skincare to be used at night?
Certain skincare ingredients are especially effective when used at night, taking advantage of the skin’s natural repair processes and avoiding exposure to sunlight that can reduce their effectiveness or cause irritation.
Excellent nighttime ingredients include: retinoids, peptides, AHAs, BHAs and Azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a particular powerhouse when it comes to clearer skin and targeting a range of concerns, specifically breakouts, dark spots and uneven skin tone. It’s the hero ingredient in the new La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel-Cream, which contains a synergistic tri-acid complex blend 10% Azelaic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid.
Other ingredients such as antioxidants, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, humectants and emollients are also all good ingredients to support a nighttime routine.
Should we clean our skin before applying skincare at night and is a foam or cream cleanser the best?
Yes, the skin should always be cleansed before applying skincare at night. Skin oils, pollutants, old skincare products, makeup and environmental toxins can all accumulate on the skin during the day and should be carefully cleaned off before any nighttime skincare products are applied. Cleansers should be chosen according to skin type and skin concerns, but cream cleansers are safe for all skin types and usually the best option.
Is nighttime also a good time to use a treatment product?
Nighttime is generally the best time to use active treatment products. The frequency will depend on the active ingredient, the skin type and the skin concerns. It is always a good idea to try an active treatment product just once a week initially and increase frequency if tolerated. La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar A.Z. Gel-Cream is a great example of a gentle yet targeted formula that works overtime overnight – the balance of Azelaic Acid and Panthenol prevents pores from getting clogged whilst also hydrating and supporting barrier repair. If in doubt try to get advice from a professional.
Top Picks for Night
- SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Interruptor Ultra Serum $299
- La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel-Cream $65.95
- Guerlain Honey Treatment $304
- No7 Pure Retinol Night Concentrate $69.99
- ROC Hydration + Moisturizer $52.99
- Endota Performance+ Overnight Glow
- Elizabeth Arden Retinol+ HPR Ceramide Capsules $165
- Dermal Overnight Face Peptide Cream $21.99
- Summer Fridays Rich Cushion Moisturizer $91
- Priceline Intensive Balm $7
- Nuxe Paris Merveillance Lift Concentrated Night Cream $93
Read issue 85 of Retail Beauty below:
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