The viral TikTok trend teaching viewers which makeup shades and colour intensities suit them best is taking over. But what exactly is Contrast Makeup Theory? Is it really new? Does it work? Here’s everything you need to know about this intriguing approach to choosing makeup colours for your customers.

It’s summer, and this season often inspires people to refresh their makeup looks.Is it the heat? Probably! The lively summer vibes and the ‘party season’ make us all more adventurous with fashion—and, of course, with glam.

Makeup is inherently experimental, trend-driven, and personal—there’s no right or wrong because it’s all about self-expression. But there are definitely some guidelines to consider when perfecting your signature look.

Celebrities and influencers often inspire makeup trends. Yet, with their constantly changing hair colours and bold looks for red carpets or events, it can be hard to keep up. Despite this, most stick to their own signature day-to-day look—and with the right tips, so can you.

What Is Contrast Makeup Theory?

For professional makeup artists, this concept may not be new, but for many—especially customers—it’s a game-changer. The more you educate your customers or retail staff about these techniques, the stronger the trust and relationships you build, ultimately driving sales.

Traditionally, we talk about skin tone and eye colour when choosing makeup shades or undertones. Some colours complement, while others contrast to either soften or emphasise features.

Contrast Makeup Theory, however, focuses on the contrast levels between a person’s skin tone and hair colour, with eye colour playing a secondary role. It’s all about how the difference—or similarity—between skin and hair tones influences the shades and intensities of makeup that will be most flattering.

Depending on your contrast level, you can adjust makeup shades and application intensity to create a harmonious look across three categories.

The Three Levels of Contrast Makeup Theory

In a world flooded with new products, endless trends, and countless makeup tutorials, it’s no wonder people try to replicate looks that don’t quite work for them.

Why not? Often, the makeup shades seen on someone else don’t align with your personal contrast level. This can leave you feeling washed out or overdone, where the makeup overpowers your natural beauty.

Your signature look should always enhance your features and feel natural, no matter the shades or intensity. If you find makeup is “wearing you,” understanding your contrast level can help you make better choices.

Low Contrast Level

  • What it means: The difference between your skin tone and hair colour is minimal, creating a soft and tonal appearance.
  • Examples: Gigi Hadid, Nicole Kidman as a blonde, and Beyoncé during her lighter hair phase.
  • Best shades: Softer neutrals and ethereal tones. Focus on depth and structure to define features but keep the intensity low.

Medium Contrast Level

  • What it means: A visible but not dramatic difference between your skin tone and hair colour.
  • Examples: Julianne Moore, Hailey Bieber, Zendaya.
  • Best shades: Think bronzed and rose-gold hues, peachy lips, and brown eyeliner instead of black. Makeup should have medium intensity with colours more noticeable than in the low contrast category.

High Contrast Level

  • What it means: A stark difference between your skin tone and hair colour, typically lighter skin paired with darker hair.
  • Examples: Anne Hathaway, Lily Collins, and Emma Stone in her dark-haired era.
  • Best shades: These individuals can carry bold shades like black eyeliner and red lips without appearing overdone. High intensity balances the natural contrast in their features.

Note: A bold red lip and black liner might look natural on someone with a high contrast level but overpower someone with a low contrast level.

Don’t Let Your Makeup Wear You

By understanding and embracing Contrast Makeup Theory, you can help customers—and yourself—achieve looks that flatter, enhance, and feel authentic. Enjoy experimenting with this makeup theory!

This article was first published in the Summer ’25 issue of Retail Beauty:

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