Kannabia Sense, the first Cannabis sativa plant stem cell active.

Despite the challenges brought about by Covid-19, leading cosmetic manufacturers put forward their most creative innovations for consideration across three categories – Best Active Ingredient, Best Functional Ingredient and Best Green Ingredient – for the  in-cosmetics Global Innovation Zone and Green Ingredient Awards.

Judged by some of the industry’s foremost experts, the awards are highly respected around the world and recognise the cosmetic ingredient manufacturers who are helping to push the boundaries of innovation, while responding to evolving consumer demands.

From innovative probiotic treatments to sustainable suncare, the awards celebrated the most cutting-edge personal care ingredients and were presented  as part of in-cosmetics Virtual 2020.

We’ve rounded up the winners below:

Best Active Ingredient

Scooping both the Gold AND Silver awards in the Best Active Ingredient category, Vytrus Biotech was recognised for its Kannabia Sense and Deobiome Noni ingredients.

Described as ‘the microbiota whisperer’, Kannabia Sense took the top accolade, credited for its innovative probiotic treatment that stimulates the skin microbiota to produce an in-situ postbiotic cocktail that promotes the synthesis of cutaneous oxytocin. Recommended for use in sensitive skin treatments, anti-ageing cosmetic products and delicate facial treatments, it is made from plant stem cells of Cannabis sativa, a herbaceous plant indigenous to eastern Asia.  

Vytrus picked up the Silver award for Deobiome Noni, an innovative prebiotic deodorant treatment, that reduces the generation of body odour while allowing the skin to breathe and respecting the skin microbiota.

Closing the category, Mibelle Biochemistry and Clariant Active were announced as this year’s joint Bronze Award winners. Recognised for its Alpine Rose Active, Mibelle Biochemistry’s novel ‘senolytics’ concept was chosen for its ability to eliminate senescent skin cells and protect skin proteins from oxidative stress. Clariant Active was applauded for its rare and unique ingredient, Prenylium™. Thanks to Clariant’s Plant Milking technology, Prenylium is extracted from the root of the Morus Alba tree without causing any damage. This innovative and sustainable approach to sourcing helps to stimulate root growth and results in a concentration of prenylated flavonoids 2000% higher than what is typically found in mulberry root extracts.

Best Functional Ingredient Award

German cosmetic manufacturer Symrise took the top award in the Best Functional Ingredient category for its Symrise SymEffect™ Sun. Based entirely on renewable raw materials from responsible sources, the newly developed ingredient combines the advantages of conventional sunscreen products with the increasing sustainability requirements of consumers. It pursues a 360º approach, offering a holistic way to meet the multiple challenges of sunscreen products. It stood out for its use of natural sources, the efficiency of its UV filters and formulation stability.

Also demonstrating a sustainable approach to sun protection, Dow Chemical was awarded the Silver award for its SunSpheres™ BIO SPF Booster, a bio-based and readily biodegradable SPF boost that enables greater SPF efficiency in suncare and daily skincare products.

The category also honoured two bronze award winners: Clariant and Gattefossé. The former was selected for VELSAN® FLEX which, thanks to its high water solubility and Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of 93%, offers preservation boosting powers together with broad formulation flexibility. Gattefossé’s Emulium® Dolcea MB – a natural origin O/W emulsifier –  has the ability to create a wider range of textures, from fluid serum to thick butter in a wide range of applications, such as skincare, suncare, make up and haircare.

Green Ingredient Award

As sustainability continues to drive cosmetic manufacturers to assess the ingredients used in their formulations, this year’s Green Ingredient Award – in partnership with Ecovia Intelligence – recognised the ingredients championing sustainability in the personal care and beauty market. Henry Lamotte OilsParadise Nut Oil/Magdalena River Nut Oil scooped the Gold Award for its ability to support the regeneration of the skin’s lipid film, while improving the water retention capability of the skin, reducing transepidermal water loss.

Unveiled as the Silver Award winner, Cargill Beauty’s FiberDesign™ Sensation was praised for its approach to sustainability and upcycling. Derived from 100% natural origins, the texturiser and emulsion stabiliser, designed specifically for skincare, is based on citrus peel fibres from the pectin production side stream.

Joining an exciting line-up of award winners, Minasolve SAS scooped the Bronze Award for Best Green Ingredient for its A-Leen Aroma-3, a nature-derived perfuming agent that offers a broad-spectrum antimicrobial effect. It is a 100% natural version of phenylpropanol produced from cassia essential oil.

To view the announcment of the winners on-demand, visit the in-cosmetics webinar channel.

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