Playing with makeup is so much fun – a big reason I started to dabble in makeup artistry in my late teens – that, and the reactions you get when you enhance someone’s features, bringing out their best.
In today’s world, we have so much choice with products, in shade selection and with so much inspiration drawn from beauty influencers on Social Media, it can be hard for consumers to know when to add a new shade to their look, or what shades even suit them.
SHADE CONSULTATION
Eye makeup in general is a very common request for advice… What shadows are best for my eyes? Should I wear Eyeliner? Are Smokey Eyes still in? What shades work best with my eye colour? Sound familiar? It’s important that when a consumer is seeking advice for a new eye makeup look, or maybe a slight update, we don’t go too far away from what they are applying at that time. If someone is only using basic neutral shades and then you suggest applying on-trend orange and copper tones, it’s going to be a bit of a shock and most likely will not translate into a sale, which is a big part of being a Beauty Advisor in retail.
Ask questions about the eye makeup the consumer currently wears (if any), when are they wearing it, what they like and don’t like about their look and if they have been inspired by any beauty images online that they might want to try. It’s important to gauge how adventurous they are with makeup as well as their personality for a successful result.
SHADE RULES
You often hear: ‘There are no rules with Makeup’, but we all should know as experts that there are certain shades that work better on certain skin tones and with eye colour. The typical taupe, brown bronze shades are perfect for any skin colour, used as shading an area – usually making the area smaller and creating a hollow effect – whereas, lighter tones in the family are great to highlight and bring an area forward.
THIS IS A QUICK GUIDE – OPPOSITES REALLY DO ATTRACT!
• Blue Eyes – Anything warm, neutral and earth toned, olive green and gold. • Green Eyes – Slightly richer tones, copper, bronze, plum and navy. • Brown Eyes – Any colour opposite to brown, especially electric blue and turquoise green, and for neutrals, on the copper/bronze side of things.
Only add colour if the consumer wants to try something new, and it isn’t too far from the colour family they are already applying. Adding even the slightest new shade to their already existing makeup look, could be the lift they needed!
SHADE APPLICATION
It is general standard application now to use a generic taupe/caramel/bronzer tone across the mobile eyelid as a base, especially within the socket area of the eye to cut in a crease, lift and structure the eye shape. This can be deepened as the look is applied, but it’s always best, NOT to use too much colour in the socket area and keep it neutral.
• Add a brighter, or slightly coloured inner corner tear duct shade to lift neutral shadow shades.
• Choose a brighter or metallic version of the base shades used on the eye and place on the central eyelid, this will capture light when eyes are moving for a 3-dimensional effect to the eye shape.
• Use a coloured eyeliner on the lower waterline of the eye, this can brighten any look and one of my new fave shades for this is peach!
• If bronze and neutral shades are your go-to, try a brighter colour on the lower lash line to spice things up, or us a metallic colour in this area to add a new shade. Go on, give them your best shade!
By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty