IN THE ZONE

‘Eyes are windows to the soul’. Poetic proverbs aside, our eyes command paramount attention, and are instrumental to facial processing. The delicate eye contour sits in what is technically known as the periorbital region of the face – a zone that comprises the upper eyelids to the eyebrows, and the lower lids to the upper part of the cheek.

“The skin in the eye contour is significantly thinner and more fragile compared to other parts of our face and body. Lubricating sebaceous glands, and collagen – the primary structural component of the dermis, responsible for strengthening and supporting skin – are less concentrated in this zone. As we age, our collagen levels become depleted, tissues and muscles weaken, and the fat pads underneath our eyes begin to descend and bulge – the associated puffiness can also be attributed to an accumulation of fluid (water retention). Furthermore, the eye contour is subject to constant micromovements – both voluntary and involuntary,” explains dermatologist, Dr Eleni Yiasemides, SouthDerm, NSW.

What does this mean? Unfortunately, our eye contour is vulnerable to dryness, irritation, and environmental damage that exacerbate the visible signs of ageing – loss of firmness, fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and dullness. Factor in genetics and poor lifestyle choices that can contribute to persistent dark circles and puffiness, and our preoccupation with products to specifically treat the eye contour is completely justified. Show me the light.

MADE FOR SENSITIVE

Many skincare professionals – including dermal therapists, dermatologists, and cosmetic physicians – advocate the use of dedicated skincare products that are formulated specifically for the delicate eye zone. The market is saturated with an array of products and promises. From a consumer perspective, the navigation aligned to purchasing a performance-driven, eye contour product can be overwhelming. Assisting consumers should ideally begin with identifying their skin type and key concerns.

“The skin surrounding our eyes showcases a thinner epidermis, and a weaker barrier function that can lead to transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and irritation. Dry skin is compromised skin. Minimalist, fragrance-free products that combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients will promote well tolerated hydration and moisturisation,” says Rachel McAdam, Scientific Communications Manager, L’Oréal Active Cosmetics Division. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturisation is aligned to skin’s ability to retain water molecules – both elements are required to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Eye Cream offers a lightweight, non-greasy formula enriched with soothing Neurosensine, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), and the brand’s unique, antioxidant-rich Thermal Spring Water, to hydrate and soothe the eye contour. Mindfully packaged in an airtight vessel to preserve the purity of the formula, the recent inclusion of prebiotic Sphingobioma supports the skin microbiome and minimises sensitivity.

CeraVe Eye Repair Cream is formulated with three essential, skin-loving Ceramides to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier, calming Niacinamide, and Hyaluronic Acid to attract moisture and consequently promote plumper, smoother looking skin. “Dermatologist-approved, both products are ideal for sensitive, allergy-prone skin – fragrance-free, paraben-free, hypoallergenic, and non-comedogenic”, says McAdam. Everything you need, and everything you don’t.

For those seeking ‘made for sensitive’ products with hero botanical infusions, Weleda Hydrating Eye Gel contains moisturising Prickly Pear Extract, Vitamin E-rich Wheatgerm Oil, and a combination of soothing Aloe Vera and Cucumber Fruit Extracts. Designed with a cooling, metal roll-on applicator, the weightless formula absorbs swiftly to increase moisture levels by up to 93% withing 30 minutes.

Ophthalmologist tested, Clinique All About Eyes offers a sublime, cream-gel formula that actively targets under-eye circles and puffiness. Key ingredients include Mulberry Root Extract to combat free radical damage and brighten, stimulating Caffeine to decongest and firm, and Green Tea Extract (rich in Polyphenols) to prevent oxidative damage.

LET THERE BE LIGHT

Dark circles present a common concern for many consumers – our pursuit for a brighter-looking eye contour is relentless.

“Dark circles can be attributed to a range of factors including ageing, genetics, hyperpigmentation, and fatigue. From our mid-twenties, the progressive loss of collagen and elastin leads to the degeneration of skin tissue. The delicate skin in the eye zone becomes increasingly fragile, and the resulting transparency exposes the presence of blood vessels that can darken the appearance of this zone. The look of dark circles can be intensified by the anatomy of the under-eye area. A prominent ‘tear trough’ (the hollowed area that extends from the inner corner of the eye toward the cheekbone), can create shadowing and make dark circles more apparent. Some people naturally produce extra pigment (melanin) around their eyes, and the sun’s damaging UV rays can also trigger melanin production leading to hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Yiasemides.

With regards to poor lifestyle habits including smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, inadequate sleep, and not drinking enough water, it’s safe to assume that we are all familiar with the consequences. These habits create a fatigued appearance that can intensify the look of dark circles and puffiness. Be kind to your body. Truth be told, no one product (or procedure) can completely diminish the look of dark circles, but we can alleviate the condition with hybrid formulations – those that combine ingredients to strengthen the skin barrier function (such as Ceramides), with specific actives (such as Niacinamide and Vitamin C) + radiance-boosting optical brighteners.

Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Crème is powered by a triple Vitamin C brightening complex, and light-reflecting pigments derived from Banana Powder, to provide universal colour-correcting benefits. The hydrating, illuminating formula includes Gold to enhance the delivery of Vitamin C, and is designed to create a crease-resistant base for improved concealer wear.

Tula Rose Glow & Get It is a brightening eye balm infused with anti-ageing Rosehip Oil (a gentle, plant-based Retinol alternative), hydrating Rose Water, plumping Hyaluronic Acid, firming Caffeine, and probiotic extracts to balance the skin microbiome. The convenient, ‘take-anywhere’, creamy balm-stick formula includes illuminating particles to reduce the look of dark circles, and impart a radiant glow.

La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar Anti Pigmentation Eye Cream is expertly formulated with PhE-Resorcinol to promote a unified complexion, Ferulic Acid (a powerful anti-ageing antioxidant), and Caffeine to boost microcirculation and firm. Suitable for sensitive eyes, the addition of light-reflecting pigments alleviates dullness, and the appearance of dark circles. Applied via a sculpted, cooling metal applicator, the hydrating, fluid texture melts into the skin to create an ideal makeup base.   

THE POWERHOUSES

According to Dr Yiasemides, eye contour products that hydrate, moisturise, and soothe the delicate orbital contour should be prioritised. Products formulated with lipid-rich, barrier-strengthening ingredients such as skin-identical Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Peptides, Provitamin B5, and Vitamin K (aligned to skin-recovery) are ideal. Certain actives, particularly exfoliating AHAs and BHAs, and additives including alcohol, fragrance, preservatives and sulphates, have the potential to irritate sensitive, allergy-prone skin types. For those that can tolerate actives, Dr Yiasemides’ star ingredients include clinically proven Retinol (a Vitamin A derivative) to resurface and refine, and brightening Vitamin C, to mitigate damage caused by free radicals, and improve the appearance of dull, uneven skin.

Renowned as a market leader in Ceramide technology, Elizabeth Arden has introduced Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Cream to its anti-ageing skincare arsenal. Powered by encapsulated pure Retinol (to enhance stability, penetration and performance), the efficacious formula also holds a Peptide complex, barrier-fortifying Ceramides, Niacinamide, and soothing Panthenol (Provitamin B5). The verdict – a considered fusion of actives and caring ingredients to address the signs of ageing and promote a healthy, radiant-looking eye contour.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix is designed to support and accelerate the skin’s natural nocturnal repair process. 360° Mesh Matrix Technology – powered by a blend of Visco-Elastic Polymer and multi-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acids – acts to cushion the visible impact of accumulated micro-movements in the delicate eye area.

Showcasing the brand’s expertise in microbiome science, Lancôme Advanced Génefique Eye Cream is supercharged with Bifidus Prebiotic Fractions to rebalance the skin microbiome, Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate and plump skin, and Vitamin CG – a gentler, more stable derivative of Vitamin C that delivers enhanced antioxidant, collagen-boosting, and clarifying benefits.

Naomi Catfish Blurring Eye Cream is an innovative, cosmeceutical-grade product that offers an immediate blurring effect to alleviate the look of imperfections. The formula is infused with Hyaluronic Filling Spheres, Kangaroo Paw Flower Extract, and the brand’s exclusive Proprietary Brightening Cocktail to boost collagen production, target pigmentation, restore luminosity and firmness.

Rationale #6 The Eye Crème showcases a high-performance formula anchored by Retinol to encourage cell generation, DNA Repair Enzymes to address the signs of photo-ageing, replenishing Ceramides, and antioxidant-rich Baobab Pulp Extract, to hydrate and counter the look of fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Next-gen powerhouses sorted.

WORDS OF WISDOM

“With regards to the eye contour, ‘less is always more’ – this refers to the product’s ingredient listing, and to applying a restrained amount of the formula. Layer the product onto cleansed skin after applying your facial serum, and follow with a moisturiser. Be gentle. Think of the application as a ‘gesture’ – sweep the formula from the inner corner to the outer corner to promote lymphatic drainage, and pat the residue onto the eyelid. Consider alternating the products you deploy for your AM v’s PM routine – lightweight formulations are ideal in the morning, and richer ones – particularly those that hero Retinol – are better suited in the evening,” recommends George Gougoulis, an established aesthetician, industry expert, and Director at The Facial Maestro (VIC). The vulnerability of the fragile skin in the eye zone can be attributed to its biological characteristics, and to our lifestyle choices. Consult a skincare professional to recommend efficacious products (and ingredients), to address the specific concerns of your eye zone. It’s estimated that 90% of ageing results from harmful (cancer-causing) UV exposure. Invest in a dermatologist-approved, broad spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen, and integrate this skincare ‘essential’ into your daily (year-round) AM routine, as the last step prior to applying makeup. Under-eye concealers? Clever. Colour-correctors? Genius. Be sure to research and trial – consider the formula, shade, and texture with due care. Sunglasses? They are vital – seek out reputable retailers, and styles that are labelled with Category 3 (as a minimum) or UV 400. Eyes – diamonds in the sky.

This article was first published in the Spring issue of Retail Beauty.

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